While planning this crazy adventure, Tara did a lot of research. (Sure she’s a planner, but this attention to detail is also an important aspect of her professional life.) I don’t think that I could overestimate the amount of research and number of itineraries that she created. She bought and read several travel guides, found internet sources and read reviews, and spoke with people that have lived in or been to Australia and/or New Zealand. There were many nights when I would be doing homework and she was busy scribbling notes into a spiral notebook about her findings.

One of the things that got her really excited was the Daintree Rainforest. This is one of the oldest rainforests in the world and accessible from Cairns. She had an entire day planned with a local photographer (Paul) to drive to Daintree, Mossman Gorge, Cape Tribulation and some other picturesque locations that Paul was sure to share with us. Unfortunately, Mother Nature did not get the memo (or simply ignored the request) to keep the rain to a minimum.

When Paul picked us up at Kookas and introduced himself, he started talking right away about the weather. He had done some checking and while the weather that day wasn’t expected to be especially terrible, the rains had been relentless the past couple days and many of the creeks and rivers were overflowing and some of the roads were flooded. Specifically, a ferry that would get us up to Daintree and Mossman was closed. He kindly offered to postpone a few days, but that was a non-starter as we had another activity booked the next day and a flight to Tasmania the following. So, we did what any reasonable people would do, we improvised.

Paul was not native to Cairns, but had lived there going on 30 years. He already had a contingency plan in the works, so we jumped in his car and headed south out of Cairns instead of north toward Daintree. He played the consummate tour guide as he drove and gave us history of the area, asked about where we were from, and learned about our skills as photographers and interests. He used that information to craft a little tour out of the city, up to the tablelands, around a big loop, and finally back to our B&B.

Paul took us to a number of waterfalls and short hikes in, around, and through rainforests. At one of our stops, Tara had the bad luck to drop her lens cap from her camera into the river. We were on a deck at a waterfall viewpoint and we all heard the distinctive sound of the lens cap on wood and then a couple other sounds. It bounced off the deck, down 6-8 feet and into some large rocks. Paul made a valiant effort to try to retrieve the lost accessory, but ultimately was unable to find it (don’t worry, we bought a new lens cap the next day and felt really bad about littering).

A snake I named Frank

Paul had just about everything covered. He even brought a couple extra umbrellas. This was certainly a good thing, because off and on through the day the rain came down – hard. We seemed to have really lucky timing, because there were several times where the rain stopped just as we pulled up to one of our photo stops, did our hike and took our pictures, and the rain started back up just as soon as we got back into the car. It didn’t happen every time, and sometimes we got really wet, but what can you do? (No rain, no rainforest.)

Our last stop of the day was to a very large tree named the cathedral fig tree. It was a monstrosity. It had roots growing out from branches that eventually merged back into the trunk over time. It was even large enough to support the colonies of ferns that appeared in its upper branches. At Paul’s recommendation, Tara and I climbed into part of the trunk that looked like it encircled us for some photos as Paul worked the camera for us.

Cathedral Fig Tree

After that, Paul deposited us back at Kookas nearly 11 hours after we met. A long day for sure, but well worth the experience.

To see a gallery of Cairns photos, Click here.

 

Our fun in Cairns (pronounced like cans, don’t ask me why they refuse to acknowledge the “i” and the “r” in the word) began at the same place it ended, at a delightful bed and breakfast called “Kookas B&B”. Our trip to the B&B was a mostly uneventful taxi drive through the Cairns Botanical Gardens, which was full of paths through tropical plants. I say mostly uneventful, because the exception was the last 30-40 unnerving meters. Kookas is located at the edge of the city in a suburb appropriately named Edge Hill. It turns out that Kookas was in fact on the edge of a hill and backed up against the rainforest. The driveway climbed 10-15 meters, complete with switchbacks and grooved pavement. Even with these traction aides, our taxi spun its tires at least once, and was nearly unable to take us to the top. We found out later that Marlies and Bruno (the owners of Kookas) have regular fights with taxi and Uber drivers, on behalf of their guests, to get the drivers to drive to the top of the driveway. They don’t win every fight. We had to walk that steep climb several times during our stay.

Marlies and Bruno were fantastic hosts with many fun and interesting suggestions about what to do in the city. They made sure we started each morning off right with a delicious breakfast that they prepared and set out for us, which included fresh fruits (dragon, pineapple, mango, banana, blueberry, etc), breads, jams, ham, cheese, yogurt, granola, and juice. It was quite the spread and while we were eating, they chatted with us about our plans for the day and offered a few suggestions. Marlies even sent us off to the airport on our early flight with a couple of homemade sandwiches. She didn’t need to do this, but it was amazing.

Part of our Kookas Breakfast spread

If you haven’t figured it out yet, the name “Kookas” is an abbreviation of kookaburra. They had images of kookaburras all around the B&B from the mailbox to the garage door to some of the artwork that decorated the walls of the house. Even though Marlies told us that a family of kookaburras lived in the neighborhood, we didn’t give it much thought until our last full day in Cairns. That morning during breakfast, one of the kookaburra birds landed on the railing of the deck near our breakfast table. It just sat there looking slightly top heavy with an overly large beak. Then Marlies brought out a Tupperware container with meaty bits in it and fed the bird. This got him excited and he made a loud noise like a heckling laugh or a gibbering chimpanzee. Loud and a bit obnoxious, but not the most terrible bird noise we heard from that deck. (The white cockatoos win the Oscar for most horrible noise to come from an avian in Cairns. While they are fun birds to look at, Tara described their call as “painfully horrible” and “the stuff of nightmares”. She is, of course, correct on both points.)

Kookaburra on rail at breakfast

We spent a little time in the city for meals, and to explore the shops between activities, but always left thankful that we were staying outside of town. The commercial part of the city basically consists of the waterfront (where reef and fishing tours depart from, as well as where some of the better dining establishments can be found), the main drag (where other restaurants, souvenir shops, and other stores are), and the night markets (ignore the name, they are also open during the day) that connect the waterfront to the main drag. The main drag had a camera shop and this became very important when Tara lost her lens cap during a photo tour (read more in the “Paul and the no Daintree, very wet day” installment of our journey). Some of the restaurants on the water offered “Australian” food like kangaroo and wallaby, but Tara and I both skipped the offerings (we both tried kangaroo and crocodile later at a fire making ceremony at the aboriginal center, but it wasn’t anything to write home about).

My overall rating for Kookas and the city of Cairns: 8.5. Kookas was fantastic and even though we had to do a bit of hiking to get back to our rooms a couple nights, the facilities and friendliness of Marlies and Bruno more than made up for it. The city was laid back. There wasn’t a lot of traffic or hustle and bustle. The main economic driver is tourism and it shows. My biggest complaint was the heat and rain. It was an unrelenting combination a couple of days we were there and I found it stifling and uncomfortable. Tara was less bothered by it than I was, and even professed to enjoy it (crazy, I tell you).

To see a gallery of Cairns photos, Click here.